How to evaluate the efficacy of anti-aging products?

published on 08/08/2019

In a context of a general aging of the population (33% of the world population by 2030 according to INSEE), it is clear that today's seniors are very different from those of yesterday. New job, new couple life, some even seem rejuvenated. Having an attractive purchasing power and the desire to age well (see our article on the happy aging trend), people in their fifties, are now a key target of choice for the cosmetics industry that offers them dedicated care.

Specialized in evaluation methods with expertise in anti-aging, our team organized a webinar about the various evaluation methods, last July 4th. Back to some highlights of our presentation.

What are the signs of age?

Méthodes anti-âge

Intuitively, we can estimate the age of a person-... Except that this intuition is actually based on an unconscious analysis of certain physiological aspects of the skin. Thus, wrinkles, pigmentary changes, fineness of the skin, sagging skin are all clues suggesting the age of a person.

What are the factors of aging?

"The aging of the skin is an inescapable phenomenon that depends on the genetic capital and lifestyle of each person".

So there are:

  • Chronological aging: the process is genetically programmed
  • And environmental aging: the aging process is then accelerated by external factors such as sun, tobacco, pollution etc...

Exemple de vieillissement environnemental

Example of environmental aging with these twin sisters, one being a great smoker (guess who :))

What are the metabolic and cellular causes?

We identify different causes:

  • Modification of the viscoelastic properties
  • Alteration of the metabolic activity
  • Alteration of the natural anti-radical defenses
  • Alteration of the cutaneous microcirculation
  • Modification of pigmentation
  • Alteration of the skin barrier

Each cause can be apprehended scientifically by evaluation methods: ultrasound imaging 75 MHZ, confocal microscopy, dermal torquemeter, balistometer, Dynaskin, micro-relief analysis, 3D surface topography by fringe projection, AEVA, clinical evaluation, image analysis... We draw-up the most suitable protocol for the mode of action of your product.

Anti aging and emotions


We discussed it earlier: the trend is to "better age", to accept the signs of time while integrating an emotional aspect linked to the use of a cosmetic product. In partnership with EMOSPIN, we developed specific protocols based on three components:

  • Subjective component: how we express emotions (verbalization analysis)
  • Behavioral component: how we express emotions non-verbally (posture, gestures, etc.)
  • And visceral component: analysis of physiological upheavals (heart rate, hormonal changes, breathing etc).

Each component can be evaluated according to different methods we select according to our expertise. Besides, we developed a specific protocol called "mirror test".

In conclusion, the anti-aging is an exciting claim but also complex to apprehend; therefore our team remains at your disposal to assist you in the choice of the most relevant techniques.

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